Saturday 18 September 2010

September 17th - Checking out, trains, bunk beds and final thoughts

Well this was it, the last day of my journey. Seventeen nights had gone by in the blink of an eye, but my word what a blink it was. As I sit here writing this final blog, I feel very privileged to have experienced the sights, the sounds and the cultures on this journey.

Today was a mooching day really. I checked out of the hotel in the morning and got the ferry to the train station. I put my luggage in a locker and had one final look around Venice, as my train did not leave until 8pm. I stayed in the district of Santa Croce and explored a couple of churches and had lunch in a lovely square called Campo Santa Margherita. Eventually, I headed back to the train station and waited for my train. The sleeper train arrived and I hopped on and found my compartment. I was in a six couchette, which basically has two triple bunk beds. It was like being a kid again in the boys brigade when I use to go camping at a place called Heswall camp. All that was missing was the midnight feast. Lol

Anyway there was a a french couple, who were students and had been to croatia and then Venice, there was a Italian guy and a Japanese guy , oh and don't forget the scouser.

As I type this I am lying on my bunk, with a little reading light on, its wonderfully basic and simple and yet so grand. However, getting into my bunk was not without incident. Apparently getting into the middle bunk is the hardest, especially for a tall person, and so it proved to be. I banged my head several times and at times felt as though I was a rubber man, good job I was flexible. Lol
Anyway once I was settled in it was actually quite snug. You get your own sheet, pillow and blanket. It is late now, and as I write I find myself dozing off, so it is almost time to sign off for good.

To conclude these ramblings I just want to say thanks for following me. I have experienced some amazing places, and that's the key, experienced. Everywhere I have been there are millions of people click, click, clicking away with their cameras, including myself. But how many have actually stopped and appreciated the places and sites they were seeing? I would say not many. Most people just tick places off, like a check list of things to buy at a supermarket. How many appreciate the blood, sweet and tears that went into the cathedral in Milan, or the majestic palace in Venice? I would say not many. All these places are modern wonders of the world and we should be privileged to be alive to see them. Some of my favourite times on the journey involved putting some music on and just sitting and admiring the places I was in.

As I battle with my eyelids I will leave you with a quote from me and the search for happiness, not Hector!!!!

“Happiness is enjoying your life no matter what, because you only get one”

Goodbye and thanks once again.

September 16th - The north lagoon, blue slippers and the local police

Well one more cram packed day in Venice and that was that. After an early breakfast I headed for the ferry and a trip to the North Lagoon. The North Lagoon comprises of lots of small islands that are a lot quieter than Venice itself.

I got a day pass, for the journey as I would be doing quite a bit of island hopping. The first island I went to was Murano. Murano was famous for its glassmaking, in fact Murano developed blowing and fusion techniques to extraordinary heights in the 1500s, and so closely guarded were the trade secrets that skilled craftsmen could migrate only under pain of death. The island itself was lovely and was like a miniature Venice with its own canals and alleyways. I visited the glass museum which contained an amazing glass chandelier from 1864, made from 356 handmade pieces. I then had a wonder around again and watched some glassmaking demonstrations, which were free. I also encountered a local who certainly knew a thing or two about colour coordination, he was wearing a red and white leather jacket and beige trousers, which was not too bad in itself if he had not been wearing bright blue slippers as he walked around!! I then walked to a second landing stage (Faro), which was situated next to an old lighthouse. I took a few pictures and then boarded the next ferry to Burano.

Once I arrived in Burano I had a lovely lunch in a little cafe and then just explored, the main attraction was a leaning bell tower. I then headed over to Torcello via another ferry. Torcello was the site of the original Venice settlement. On this lovely little island there is the amazing Basilica di Santa Maria dell'Assunta which contains some of the most breathtaking Byzantine mosaics in the world. There also a lovely little church called Santa Fosca.

After wandering around Torcello I island hopped back to Burano and then got the ferry back to Venice. It was a lovely day and fortunately I did not get bitten much by mosquitoes, as there are swarms of them all over the north lagoon islands.

Once back in Venice I got changed and went out for a light tea, as once again I had stuffed myself at lunch. Then later in the evening I returned to my favourite spot, the Piazza San Marco, for a glass of wine and one final look at the beauty of Venice in the evening. However, as is always the case with me, things are always interesting. No sooner had I got my half bottle of wine the heavens open and there was a torrential downpour of rain, I ran for cover, wine in hand and a snack in the other and parked myself on a marble bench under the arches of the Doge's Palace. I only had a t-shirt on and I had my baseball cap on my head. No sooner I had sat down, three local policemen came over and started grilling me. They wanted to see my passport and asked me were I was from. I guess with the cap on my head, and the bottle of wine in my hand, they must of thought I was a bit of riff raff!!!!

Anyway, I managed to convince them I was a tourist and I was as normal as they come, and they moved on and left me in peace. As the rain continued to fall I ate my snacks and sipped my red wine and listened to a bit of music on my i-phone. I sighed as I took in the scenery one last time, it was nearly hometime!!!!

September 15th - My first full day around Venice

Well I got up bright and early, had breakfast at the hotel and set off to explore the wonders of Venice. Firstly to avoid the queues I headed over to the Doge's Palace. From the outside it was stunning, every last detail was perfect. I went inside and walked around this huge place. One of the highlights was the 'Sala del Maggior Consiglio' which was a huge majestic great council chamber. There were huge canvases lining the walls, it was very impressive. This whole hall was shinning and I could not help but think that it must take ages to polish this huge hall floor and walls and everything. Lol

Other highlights inside were the prisons, which were a maze of cells linked by corridors and staircases. Then there was the 'Ponte dei Sospiri' which is one of the world's most famous bridges. 'The bridge of sighs' as it is called is a bridge that crosses to the palace prisons.

Then there were various apartments, all huge and amazing, one room, the 'Sala della Scudo even had two huge world globes and maps lining the walls. There was so much to see, unfortunately no photo's could be taken inside the rooms.

I then left the Doge's Palace and headed over to the Basilicia San Marco, which was equally as stunning.

By this time, lunch was fast approaching, so I headed over to a place called 'Harry's Bar', This bar has been open since 1931 and was were the famous Bellini apertif was invented. There was a bar downstairs and a restaurant upstairs. I headed upstairs and ordered a sirloin steak burger, which was actually sirloin steak between two toasted pieces of bread, it was huge, and the price was huge as well. Basically it was £27 for a burger, but you only live once. Lol!!!

I then tried a Bellini apertif, which was very nice. It consists of smooth fresh peach juice and sparkling Prosecco.

After lunch I then just wandered around San Marco, which is one of the various sections of Venice. I also had a walk along the Grand Canal and took some photo's of the great bridge. There was so much to see and do, but not enough time. I think over the course of my travels I have become immune to alcohol. Seriously, if I lived in Italy, I would be so fat, they really do eat and drink so much. You have wine with almost every meal. Lol

Anyway as the day wore on I went for tea. I only had a light tea as I was still stuffed from the lunch at Harry's bar, so just had a sandwich. As the sun set I got a bottle of beer and sat on the waterfront again next to the Doge's Palace, watching the world go by. It had been a great day and tomorrow I would head off to the North Lagoon by ferry to see some of the older islands.

Wednesday 15 September 2010

September 14th - The journey to Venice

Well the holiday was nearly drawing to a close, just one final stop, Venice.

I was up early and got the bus down to the train station. There is no direct train to Venice, so I had to get a train to Villach and then a bus to Venice. The train journey took about 2.5 hours and the bus journey took 4.5 hours. The journey was long, but the views were great along the way, The bus finally crossed the huge, long road into Venice bus station at about 4:20pm.

I then got a boat taxi (ferry) to San Marco, the views along the way were out of this world. I arrived at my hotel and checked into my hotel. By this time it was about 5pm, I had a walk around and took some photo's, to be fair I was in awe of the place. I then went for some dinner in a recommended restaurant from my guide book.

Now as always when I eat, this is were the fun begins. Firstly, I sat at a table next to a middle age couple, who were from England. They were the most boring, timid couple I have ever met. Firstly after deciding what to eat the waiter came over and took their order. The waiter was at their table for about 20 minutes as the couple changed their mind about 5 times, and the waiter kept scribbling out their order and starting again. Finally they ordered their meal and the waiter asked them what they would like to drink, and yes you guested it, they didn't know. At this point, the waiter, clearly pissed off as he had wasted a whole pad of paper, said he would come back in a couple of minutes!!!!

Anyway, eventually they ordered everything and surprise, surprise they had confused the fucking waiter that much that he actually brought out the wrong food for them!!!!!

Then to finish the story, as this couple were eating, the wife said to her husband, ' Well that was a good pick hun, as always!!!!'

I was tempted to lean over and say, sorry hun did I hear you right then, your husband didn't pick the meal, it was a random meal because he confused the waiter that fucking much!!!! But I resisted. Lol

Thankfully my meal came and went without incident, it was very nice. However, the drama did not end there. Seriously folks, this was like an episode of Faulty towers. Later on the couple next to me started to have a big argument and then the waiter who had served me lost his temper in an unrelated incident and ended up kicking a table and throwing a towel on the floor and storming off into the night.

Eventually I paid my bill and left the restaurant, I did not want to leave, as I did not want to miss anything else exciting!!! Maybe my guide book was referring to the restaurant being a great place for drama, but somehow I think not!!

By this point it was getting dark as I headed back to San Marco Piazza. I bought a half bottle of red wine from an open bar and headed out into the square. It was superb, fancy restaurants around the square had live music bands outside on little stages. Some were jazz bands, others were violin players and piano players, it was fantastic.

I then walked to the edge of the square and sat down on the steps were the water was lapping at my feet, and sipped my red wine from a plastic glass and admired the scenery. Other cities around the world have one or two stunning buildings and sites, Venice had an infinite number. Everything was magical, even the so called normal buildings, were the waves lapped at the front doors made me smile. At every turn there was a canal, with a gondola gliding past, or some other amazing site.

This place was built to endure and will be still standing long after we have gone. They don't make places like this anymore. They don't make structures like this anymore, it's not efficient or practical and takes too much space for the compact world in which we live in now. But who cares, because it is a majestic, timeless place full of wonders and joy.

As I sat on them steps drinking my wine, you could feel the history in the air. If you blotted out the tourist stalls and billboards it was as close as you could get to looking back in time, glimpsing an era of creativity and stunning beauty that we will never see the like of again.

It made me think of a song by Jack Savoretti called 'Dreamers'. One of the lines in the song is 'Whatever happened to the dreamers, they always looked beyond the stars'

I wonder what the dreamers who built this place would think of us and our way of life and what we had done to Venice and the world in which we live!!!!

September 13th - The beauty of Salzburg

Well I had a fantastic sleep last night, gods know why!!!
After breakfast, I headed back down into town again, this time using the sensible option of the bus. As in Milan, it was raining. However, the rain could not damped my spirits with the sights this beautiful city had to offer. The bus dumped me down at the train station and I jumped off and headed for some 'Sound of music sites'. Firstly I set-off to the 'Schloss Mirabell' and the 'Mirabellgarten'. The gardens were fantastic and this is were the young scallywags from the sound of music practised Do-Re-Mi around the statues. The 'Schloss Mirabell' was fantastic, the marble staircase was unbelievable and the grand hall, with its beautiful chandeliers, was a site to behold. The hall hosts classical concerts everyday and evening.

I then headed up to the Festung Hohensalzburg. This beautiful 900 year old fortress is at the top of a steep hill, which is reachable by the Festungsbahn funicular. This awesome glass train rises steeply up to the castle. The castle itself was fantastic, and the views overlooking the city, the river and the surrounding hills were stunning.

After visiting the castle I then walked along the hill ridge of 'Monchsberg' which had various view points, all offering stunning views of Salzburg down below. The walk finally ended, in the pouring rain, at the best pub I have ever been in.

The pub was no ordinary pub and it went by the name of Augustiner Braustubl'. You entered via huge double doors and were immediately greeted by a huge hall way. You then proceeded down a marble staircase that would not have looked out of place inside a church. Once below ground you then proceeded down a huge corridor with stalls on either side selling various snacks and food. Finally you arrived at a foyer area were there was shelves full of stone mugs (0.5l or 1l). You picked a stone mug and took it to the counter and ordered your beer. You then filled your mug up from a huge stone fountain, amazing, I then wandered into one of the huge halls, sat down and enjoyed my beer, You see folks, this place is a monk run brewery, and is not really a pub, it was fantastic.

After a couple of stone mugs of ale I stumbled outside and spent a few more hours enjoying the sites of Salzburg. I then went for a bite to eat before heading back up to the hotel.

Salzburg was a wonderful city, with so much to do. I just did not have the time.

Tomorrow I would check out and head for the grand finale stop, VENICE!

The Woods in the day - looks nice!!!! but it wasn't in the night


September 12th - School Kids, Salzburg and thank god for the torch App

Well it has been another eventful day in the life and times of Gareth Cardus. It was an early start this morning, as I had a train to catch to Salzburg at 8:40am. I got up at 6:30am, got ready, had breakfast and checked out. The hotel room in Zurich was not very memorable apart from one stand out thing, the shower!!!

The shower was like something out of close encounters of the third kind. At a first glance it looked normal, but when you turned it on, that's when the show began. The shower head glowed different colours for different temperatures, I shit you not. Everytime I had a shower I thought I was being abducted by aliens!!!!! It was bizarre.

Anyway I got to Zurich train station with plenty of time to spare, and boarded the train. A few days ago I checked with the booking office that I did not have to book a seat, as I had my inter-rail pass. Well, when I boarded the train the first carriage and a half was booked, much to my surprise. However, it was only booked from Landbeck, which is about half-way through the journey, so I thought nothing of it.

Everything was running very smoothly as I sat watching the world go by. A lovely German lady sat next to me and she spoke good English, so we chatted for a bit, everything was well with the world, until.........

Landbeck.

As the train pulled to a stop at Landbeck, a noise that can only me described as an Elephant stampede could be heard above the train announcer. At this point the fun began, as 30 kids on a school trip boarded the train and took over the first carriage and a half, and guess who was in the half with them, me!!!!!

I had never in my life heard of a Sunday school trip, but I had now!!!!

For the first twenty minutes they were on board I really could have done with a crash helmet, as they took my life into their own hands. These kids were about 10-12 and they had no muscles whatsoever and were trying to lift ten ton bags or suitcases full of games and junk for the portable playstation's and Nintendo's onto the racks above the seats, well more importantly the rack above my seat. A couple of times I had to deflect a bag from falling onto my head or catch a bag!!!


Anyway at that point the fun did not stop, for the next two and a half hours I was subjected to singing, shouting and talking in German. Were they shouting at me, who knows, I did not understand a word they were saying. All I know is that I looked at my watch a lot and even vacated my seat ten minutes before Salzburg, in order to get away from the German brats.

When the train stopped in Salzburg I jumped off with a spring in my step, I was free!!!!

I decided to get a taxi to my hotel, as after consulting a map, I found it was up a huge hill again. However, this time it was miles away in the sound of music territory. The hotel was stunning, it even had a swimming pool, and a heated well/sauna that you could use, as long as you gave them 30 minutes notice!!!

I dumped my stuff in my room and decided to head down into town and see some of the sites as it was only 2pm. The leaflets in the reception area said it was an easy ten minute walk into the city. Lying bastards!!!! It was about 45 minutes, but fortunately it was all down hill. I walked along the river sampling the life and taking some photo's, it was stunning, another great place!!!

Then with it being the sound of music territory I just had to climb a hill. I climbed the nearby hill called 'Kapuzinerberg', and arrived at the view point overlooking the city. It was breathtaking, it was absolutely fantastic. Now by this time it was approaching 7pm, so I decided to head down and get a bite to eat. I found a lovely little restaurant and had bruschetta for starter, followed by a chicken pasta dish and then apple strudel with ice-cream for dessert. Fantastic!!!!

After a lovely meal from which I was totally stuffed I then made my first mistake, I decided to walk back up the hill 'Kapuzinerberg' for a look at the city in the night light. Now maybe it was because I had drank a few glasses of wine and was feeling merry, who knows. It was a hard climb, but as I got to the top, puffing and panting the views that came into site were well worth the long slog.

It was at this point I noticed the time, it was 9pm and I had to descend this hill and walk 45 minutes back to the hotel, including a walk through a dark wooded area. My heart started beating faster, oh shit. I reassured myself and tried to convince myself everything would be fine, there would be street lights and all would be fine!!!!

Nothing could be further from the truth!!!!

The first 35 minutes walk back to the hotel was fairly uneventful, and consisted of walking along major well lit roads. However, after this the fun began, as I arrived at the wooded area and low and behold there were no street lights, the road was pitch black, There wasn't even any moon light as the trees blocked out the sky. Oh shit, I thought, I could not even see the road two feet in front of me and it was a further ten minute walk up to the hotel.

I then thought, I know I will use my torch app on my i-phone, what a great idea!!! I switched it on and the road lit up two feet in front of me, I could see. However, I then noticed that my phones battery was on the red and could literally go off any second!!! Shit

Well lets just say for the next ten minutes I walked, stumbled and even jogged slightly as fast as I could without breaking my neck, with the torch app on my phone lighting the way. As I puffed and panted I could see the newspaper headlines for the following day, 'Stupid scouser found dead after walking off the edge of a precipice at the side of a wooded road'. At this point I was convinced that my battery would fail, so I was preparing, at any moment to get on my hands and knees and crawl up the hill. Anyway I did not get the chance, as the battery did not run out. I finally arrived at the hotel drive and headed up to the entrance. The sweat was pouring from my head as I turned the key in the front door and entered into the hotel. I made my way to my room and collapsed into bed. Gareth Cardus never do that again.

With that thought in my head, I fell into a deep sleep. The first day in Salzburg had been good, but very eventful!!!!